How to make the Perfect Volume Lash Fan
Is there anything more satisfying in a lash artist’s day than watching your client coo over themselves in the mirror as they admire their oh-so-perfect extensions? It doesn’t matter if you’re a 20-year veteran in the business, there’s always a sense of joy when the client simply cannot stop batting their eyelashes in admiration.
One especially rewarding feeling is when you’re working on a fab new set of volume lash fans. The sheer luxuriousness of it! Honestly, any time we see them “in the wild”, they never fail to take our breath away.
Have you perfected your volume lash fan method? If not, have no fear, because in this post we’ll give you some pointers on creating amazing volume lash fan looks.
What makes a perfect volume lash fan?
The perfect volume lash fan must have equal spacing between the individual lashes, a ratio of ⅓ size between the body and the base of the fan, and a 2~3mm area for glue application, and it also must be symmetrical.
We as human beings love seeing perfection around us, so anything that’s a bit off tends to be considered as ugly. (We may not want to admit that about ourselves, but it’s true for very many things.) It’s for this reason that a perfect volume lash fan has to have the exact right proportions. If it doesn’t, then, well, it can’t be perfect, right?
Even after a few weeks past the application, the evenly spread out fans retain much better overall appearance than the uneven fans.
Using ‘Imperfect fans’ can be tempting but look at the end-result here. When using the perfectly crafted fans, the overall look of the set is much neater and pleasing.
A fan fit for each client
Just like we tailor everything else to our client’s needs and natural lashes, so must we do the same when it comes to creating volume lash fans. When it comes to volume fans, there are different types of sizes and styles to choose from. It’s up to you and your client to decide on the best one.
Wide fan vs. narrow fan
If your client loves a light and fluffy look, a wide fan is the way to go. Being that it is not as dense as other types of volume fans, the lashes will appear shorter and less impactful. So make sure your client is aware of this before you begin. When working with wide fans, make sure you don’t leave the stem too short as that will affect retention.
The overall width of the fan should not be wider than 6mm (¼ inch). The fan wider than this tends to look messy and make the application quite tricky.
Narrow fans are ideal for a more uniformed, denser look. It also creates a stunningly dramatic top line (femme fatale vibes, anyone?). Keep the stems just long enough to prevent the lashes from looking messy and not uniform.
Thin base vs. flat base
One of the most amazing things about handmade volume lashing is in its flexibility in style. As an artist, you can choose which base is best suited for the look you’re trying to achieve.
Lashes with a thin base can be attached anywhere from the top of the natural lash, to the bottom, and even to the sides. If you’re aiming for a tidier look, then this is the way to get it. Not only that, a thin base volume fan can be totally wrapped around a natural lash- which gives a great retention.
A flat base, on the other hand, can only be placed on top or under the natural lash. A flat base volume fan will not wrap the natural lash as much as the thin base fan does but it has its own merit. The flat base lash fan can create a darker impression along the lash line, which helps to fill up the gap if your client has sparse natural lash.
If you somehow always end up with a flat base fan when you actually intended to make a thin base one, it might be your glue drying too fast even before you start wrapping the fan. Try a glue that gives you extra 1-2 seconds to complete the effect you want to achieve.
What are the different volume methods out there?
Off tape technique
Great for beginners, this technique allows you to move individual volume lashes either on the same tape or on a different tape. Essentially what you’re doing there is picking up a volume lash, separating it from the rest that are on the tape and then fanning out the lashes. When that is done, you can grab the lash in the middle and pull up and towards yourself to lift the lash.
Lean and pick technique
In the lean and pick technique, you pick up the fan close to the base, making sure it doesn’t cross over. Then you place it on the strip, lean it over, and pick the lashes open (hence the name). This method is good for easily manipulating each individual lash so that the fan opens up evenly. Use it as often as you can so that you can familiarize yourself with the lashes so that you can create perfect little fans.
Start by taking a lash from the strip then hold it firmly between your thumb and forefinger (use your tweezers to maintain the grip if you need to). It is very important that you don’t accidentally roll the base! Continue pinching with your fingers, while at the same time using your tweezers to slowly wriggle open the fan. Once you have the fan the way you want it, dip it in glue and apply.
Practicing at home
If you’re still not comfortable enough to attempt volume fan lashing on a beloved client, try out different sizes of fan and the fanning techniques at home first.
An easy way to practice is by using a makeup sponge. With a sponge, it’s easy for you to see how well you’ve attached the lashes, which helps you to become more precise. You can even practice your angle placement. Of course, a sponge doesn’t really mimic the eye well, but it’s still a better way to practice than using a real live human for it!
If you have a practice mannequin head at home, then even better for trying out your lashing techniques. Place the mannequin head on your lash bed, making sure to maintain good posture. Then begin creating your volume fans and applying them to the mannequin head just as you would if she were an actual client.
Love Russian volume lashes? Here are some must-have products for you
Russian volume lashes are simply fabulous and there’s no match for them. If you’re as big a fan of them as we are, we recommend Mink lash extensions in 0.03, 0.05, and 0.07 sizes.
Depending on your lashing speed, we also recommend fast-drying thin lash glue such as Mach glue for the speedy ones among us, or viscous lash glue such as Glam glue, which has a 4 to 5-second drying time. And of course, as with any lashing technique, you’ll need good lash extension tweezers!
Now that you’re armed with all of this knowledge, we hope that you start practicing your volume lash fan techniques as soon as you read this post.