BL Lashes - April 03 2020
Eyelash Extensions for Asian Monolid Eyes
AAs we, BL Lashes, are a Korean eyelash extension supplies company, we feel that it is our duty to help you with everything related to Asian eyes and lashes as well.
The most common characteristic of Asian eyes is their eyelids cover eyelashes. So designing a lash extension set for this type of eyes tends to be harder if you don’t understand the anatomy of “Asian eyes.”
In this post, we will go through the anatomy of Asian monolid eyes, common Asian lash type, and lash mapping ideas for Asian clients.
Are you ready?
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#1 Characteristic of Asian eyes: Monolids
What are monolid eyes, anyway?
Simply put, monolid eyes are eyes that do not have any creases or lines along the eyelid. Medically, it’s known as the Plica palpebronasalis, but it’s also known as the Mongolian fold.
Monolid eyes are most common in Asian ethnicities. But you’ll find this eye shape not only in the clients who are the descendants of East and Southeast Asia but also in the clients who are originally from Central Asia, and even South America.
Our favorite TV character Christina Yang (Sandra Oh) from Gray's Anatomy rocks her monolid eye shape.
Aren't monolid and hooded eyes same?
These two terms are often used interchangeably, however, monolid and hooded eyes are quite different.
Monolids are an eyelid shape that appears to lack a crease that separates the eyelid into two parts. Hooded eyelids have a fold of skin that partially (or sometimes fully) covers the eyelid.
If you have hooded eyelids, you may not be able to see your lid when you look straight into a mirror. Some people are born with hooded lids, while some develop them over time with age.
Prepping monolid eyes for better retention
Commonly Asian client’s natural lashes are thinner, shorter, and less dense than of other ethnicities. Because of that, the Asian client’s retention of eyelash extensions tends to be shorter.
Also, if the client has monolids, the thicker skin on her eyelids will touch the lash extensions more often, and the natural oil released from the skin can affect the retention of lash extensions.
We highly recommend using Lash Primer to remove excess oil before lashing and suggest lash client using Coating Sealant for better retention.
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Coating Sealant can greatly improve lash retention
The challenges when lashing on monolid eyes
When monolid eyes open, their entire eyelid is tucked under the crease.
When monolid eyes are opened, they will cover the top part of all eyelashes.
Eyes with double lids will show the length of lash extensions you intended, but monolids will cover the top part of all eyelashes. So you should use 1~2mm longer extensions for monolids.
Also, note that the inner corner and the middle part of the eyelashes will get covered by heavy eyelids, so choose your design carefully.
The inner corner and the middle part of the eyelashes will get covered by heavy eyelids
Lash extension mapping do & don't
Don't: Natural design is the most commonly used eyelash extension set style because its direction resembles the most how our natural eyelashes grow.
However, if you use the natural design for monolid clients, their eyelids will likely cover the inner and middle part of the set, which will result showing only a few lashes sticking out from the outer corner.
"Natural" design on double eyelids
"Natural" design on monolids: their eyelids will cover the inner and middle part
Do: for the monolid clients, the “fan-shape” style is most recommended.
Even with the fan shape design, you might find that if you apply too short extensions, the eyelids can cover those- and as a result, lash extensions will disappear under the eyelids.
Choose longer lengths for the inner corners than usual for the monolids clients.
"Fan-shape" design is recommended for monolids
#2 Characteristic of Asian eyes: Downward angle lashes
Most of the natural lashes of monolid clients tend to grow downward as their heavier eyelids press the roots of natural eyelashes.
Choosing the right curls for the downward angle eyelashes is very important.
Eyelash extension curl for Asian eyes
Don't: J Curl
J curl is almost straight with a slight curl at the end. If you use straight curls like J curl for downward angle natural lashes, it will result in covering the eyes and make her eyes look smaller.
J curl on monolids: makes monolid eyes look smaller
Do: C curl or D Curl
Choose a stronger curl like C-curl or D-curl for monolid clients. They will give a satisfying lash lift and open-eye effect.
Do: L or L+ Curl
L and L Plus curls can be used for monolids, and they will result in a nice chic, wide eye set.
However, this curl has a more extended base in it’s L shape, so if you’re using them for clients with heavily downward natural lashes, it will result in covering her sight and she will not be able to see well.
So investigate well about the monolid clients’ lash angle beforehand.
#4 Characteristic of Asian eyes: Mongoloid fold
Many monolid eye clients will also have mongoloid folds. If a client has mongoloid folds, it will be harder for you to work on their inner corner lashes (because the lashes hide into the fold).
Instead of pulling the inner corner vertically with the tape, pull it along the lashline to lift the fold up more effectively. If you are pulling the inner corner lid from too far away, the taping will open your client’s eye, so work closely along the lashline.
In this case, use a taping method to lift the mongoloid fold to work on the inner corner of the eye.
Useful advice for your monolid clients:
As we mentioned earlier, the Asian client’s retention for eyelash extensions can be shorter due to the anatomy of their eye shape.
Obviously, this is something that you should communicate with your client beforehand but in a nice, professional manner so that your client won’t feel offended.
Here are some extra tips you can share with your monolid clients:
- Use cosmetics with the least oil contained (see our post on makeup tip)
- After makeup, use a powder to remove excess oil from the eyelids
- Use a lash coating sealant to coat lashes, so their lashes are safe from the oil.
We wish you all happy lashing!
Team BL Lashes