Eyelash Extension Chart:
Lash curls, Thicknesses and Lengths
Mapping lash designs isn’t ‘one-size-fits-all’.
Understanding different types of lash extension curls, thickness, length, and how each function can elevate your artistry. One of the best things about lash extension is its ability to customize to enhance the best facial feature of your client.
We can assure you, the more customized you can be, the more your services will be in demand. This eyelash extension chart helps you show your customers the different types of lash extensions, curls, and lengths that are available.
Learn how different types of lash extensions work and allow yourself endless opportunities with your lash creativity!
Disclosure: Some of the links contained below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, we may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
Eyelash Extension Curl Guide
Before choosing the type of curl, you must know that the angle of natural lashes will make a huge impact on the end result of the design.
There are three types of natural lash angles: straight, downwards, and upwards.
How to choose the curl
For example, look at the image below. B curl lashes were used for both eyes but you can see the difference in the end result is astonishing:
B curl on the downward natural lash
B curl on the upward natural lash
On the first model, the natural lashes were pointing downwards. As a result, you do not see any lifting or open eye effect.
On the second model, the natural lashes were pointing upwards. As a result, you can see the B curl lashes give enough of a lift, thus creating the effect of a more open eye.
So, don’t forget that the expression of the curl changes depends on the angle of the natural lashes.
If your eyelash extension supplies cabinet is full of just popular curls like C curls and D curls, you will be limited in offering a truly customized look.
| Curl | On downward lash | On straight lash |
|---|---|---|
| I curl | Don't | Yes |
| J curl | Don't | Lash-lift |
| B curl | Don't | Lash-lift |
| C curl | Lash-lift | Open-eye |
| D curl | Open-eye | Doll-eye |
| U curl | Open-eye | Doll-eye |
| M curl | Lash-lift | Wide-eye |
| L curl | Don't | Wide-eye |
| L plus curl | Don't | Wide-eye |
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Less used curls like B curl can also create a satisfying result on the right natural lashes
Eyelash Extension Curl Chart: types of eyelash extensions curl
Subtle lash curl types
I curl lashes
I curl lash extensions are almost straight extension lashes, and they can be used for male clients who want to enhance the thickness of their lash but who don’t necessarily want to have them curled.
- I curl is suitable for: male clients
- Enhance and define the appearance of natural eye shape
J curl lashes
Photo credit @ayuda.chiaki
J curl eyelashes are the most natural looking curl. These lashes are especially suitable for clients who have stick straight lashes pointing straight or upward.
If you apply a J curl to a downward-looking natural lash, it will make the eyes look smaller and heavy.
See all J curl lashes by BL Lashes
- J curl is suitable for: natural look, inner corners
- On straight angled lashes: lash lift effect
- On upward angle lashes: open-eye effect
- DO NOT use on: heavily downward angle lashes
B curl lashes
Possibly a little underrated, B curl lashes offer a soft curl, a standard for a naturally enhanced lash appearance with excellent retention.
B curl lash extensions will give the straight natural lashes a bit more lift than a J curl.
B curl lashes have a bit more curl than J curls, but they are still an excellent option for clients with straight lashes that point straight or upward.
Also, the B curl is an excellent option for inner corner lashes.
See all B curl lashes by BL Lashes
Photo credit @summerhilllashes
- B curl is suitable for: natural look, inner corners
- On straight angled lashes: lash lift effect
- On upward angle lashes: open-eye effect
- DO NOT use on: heavily downward angle lashes
Dramatic lash curls
C curl lashes
Photo credit @megmilnerbeauty
C curl is one of the most popular curls worldwide. C curl lashes are intended for clients with a slight curl in their natural lash and will create an open eye effect.
If C curl is used for clients with slightly downward angled lashes, it will give a satisfying lash lift. If used for clients with close-to-horizontal angle lashes, it will provide a fabulous doll eye effect.
However, for clients with heavily downward-angled lashes, we recommend using D curl instead.
See all C curl lashes by BL Lashes
- C curl is suitable for: clients with a slight curl in their natural lash
- On slightly downward angled lashes: lash lift effect
- On horizontal angled lashes: open-eye effect
- DO NOT use on: heavily downward angle lashes
D curl lashes (as known as CC curl)
Photo credit @hmorganbeauty
D curl lashes are very similar to C curl lash extensions, just curlier.
They are especially effective for clients with downward-angled lashes who want a show-stopping look. These lashes will brighten and widen the eye and give a noticeable curled effect.
Because of its dramatic upward curl, if used for clients with upward-angle natural lashes or with heavily hooded eyelids, the extensions may prick the client's eyelids.
For that reason, D curl is more suitable for clients with downward-angle natural lashes.
It's one of the curlier curls, and if not applied correctly, retention may not be as great as the straight curls.
See all D curl lashes by BL Lashes
- D curl is suitable for: clients with straight or downward angle natural lashes
- On downward angled lashes: Open-eye effect
- On horizontal angled lashes: Doll-eye effect
- DO NOT use on: upward angle lashes or hooded eyelids
U curl lashes (as known as DD Curl)
Photo credit @pinkfisheslashco
U curl lashes are the curliest lash extensions. They are suitable for clients with downward-angled lashes who want the most dramatic doll-like eyelashes. These lashes will give a noticeable curled effect.
Just like D curl, because of its dramatic upward curl, if used for clients with upward-angle natural lashes or heavily hooded eyelids, the extensions may prick the client's eyelids.
For that reason, U curl is more suitable for clients with downward-angle natural lashes.
See all U curl lashes by BL Lashes
- U curl is suitable for: clients with downward angle natural lashes
- On downward angled lashes: Open-eye effect
- DO NOT use on: upward angle lashes or hooded eyelids
Lift-up curls (M, L, L+ curls)
M curl lashes
Its shape being with a small surface for the flat base and a dramatic curl upwards, M curl is designed to lift the appearance of downward-angled natural lashes.
Because of the dramatic upward angle, you will be able to give a lash lift and create a wide-eye effect.
M curl is not recommended for clients with hooded eyelids or upward angled natural lashes.
See all M curl lashes by BL Lashes
- M curl is suitable for: clients with downward angle natural lashes
- On downward angled lashes: Lifted, wide-eye effect
- DO NOT use on: upward angle lashes or hooded eyelids
How to use M curl for Extreme Cat eye Mapping
L curl and L+ curl lashes
L and L+ curl are essentially C or D curls with a flat base. Because of the flat base, you will be able to give your client the ultimate eyelid lift.
L and L+ curl are developed to provide a wide-eye effect to the clients with hooded eyelids, deep-set eyes, and older clients with droopy eyelids. L+ is slightly curlier than L.
These are the most visually rewarding lash extensions.
However, because of their long flat base, if used on downward-angle lashes, they will appear to be heavy and unflattering.
See all L curl lashes by BL Lashes
See all L+ curl lashes by BL Lashes
- L & L+ curl is suitable for: clients with hooded eyes, deep-set eyes, and droopy eyelids
- Ultimate eyelid lift effect
- DO NOT use on: downward angle lashes
How to use L, L+ curl for Asian Monolid Eyes
Curls and retention
Not all curls will have the same retention or longevity. The curlier the lash, the shorter the retention, because there is less of the natural lash for the base of the extension to attach to.
So, it is essential to choose the right combination of curl and thickness of the extensions according to your client's natural lash.
If you have trouble attaching the curly curls, we highly recommend trying our EZ-curl lashes.
What are EZ curls lashes?
The base curl of EZ Lash is straighter than the normal extension lashes, and as a result, EZ lash provides a more adhesive area for extensions and allows for a much easier extension experience for beginner lash artists.
Thanks to its wider adhesive area, EZ curl lashes also provide better retention.
How to keep the consistent curl shape of eyelash extensions
Eyelash extensions are made of PBT. The material itself doesn't expire, but over time, the lash curls can lose their shape.
To prevent the curls from relaxing, keep your lashes in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight or humidity.
Lash Extension Sizes Guide - Thickness and length
Choosing the right diameter of the eyelash extensions for a client is critical.
When deciding the thickness, you should not only consider the design aspect but, more importantly, the condition of your client's natural lashes.
Some thicker extensions (above 0.20, for example) can be too heavy for some clients' natural lashes. A wrong choice could cause poor retention and premature falling off of the extensions.
How to choose the right lash thickness
If you are unsure about the thickness of your client’s natural lash, compare with your lash extensions (which are labeled with the thickness) to determine the rough diameter of the natural lash.
From there, it’ll be easier to decide how much weight of lash extensions the natural lash can handle.
Generally, the natural eyelashes of Asians are thinner than those of other ethnicities. Also, you’ll notice that with clients over the age of 50 their eyelashes are thinner than your younger clients.
For these clients, it is recommended to use lash extensions of diameter between 0.10-0.15mm*, whereas other clients with stronger natural lashes can take 0.15-0.20mm.
However, regardless of the ethnicity or age of your client, you should always take a good look at the client's natural lashes and decide what thickness is suitable for them.
Shop 0.10 thickness lashes
Shop 0.12 thickness lashes
Shop 0.15 thickness lashes
How To: Lash Extensions for Older Clients
How to use lash thickness to create the look you want to achieve
| Thickness | Look | Use |
|---|---|---|
| 0.03mm | Mega Volume | Use for up to 20D |
| 0.05mm | Mega Volume | Use for 6D-15D |
| 0.06mm | Russian Volume | Use for 5D |
| 0.07mm | Russian Volume | Use for 5D |
| 0.10mm | Russian Volume & Classic | Used on Volume 2D-3D or as Classic 1D on very fine natural lashes. |
| 0.12mm | Classic | Used on thinner lashes for a softer look and feel. |
| 0.15mm | Classic | This is the most popular lash thickness, which creates a naturally thicker look for a Classic set. |
| 0.18mm | Classic | This lash extension thickness creates a slightly bolder look than the 0.15mm lash. |
| 0.20mm | Classic | The second most popular thickness for the classic extension. We recommend using it only on thick and healthy natural lash. |
| 0.25mm | Classic | This extension creates a glamorous look, though this lash may be too heavy for most people's lashes. |
Volume Lash Extension Weight Calculator
One topic many lash technicians find confusing is how to calculate the correct number of extensions for the Volume technique.
The ‘D’ in 2D, 3D, 5D, ~20D is short for Dimension, and it is used to describe how many strands of extensions were used for one volume fan.
Calculating the correct volume fan size comes from understanding the thickness x weight relation of the lash extensions.
For example, considering 0.15mm of lash extension to be a standard thickness to be applied on one natural eyelash, thin lashes like 0.03mm lash extensions (weight about 1/20 of 0.15 lash extension) can be safely used as 20D volume fan.
Need help? We have detailed instructions on How to calculate volume lash size weight.
How To Calculate Volume Lashes Size & Weight
If you need some helps with the complicated planning, using a lash mapping sticker can be helpful.
Make a good observation on the angles of the natural lashes and write down what curl & length you are going to use for each section.
This simple planning tool can help the end result greatly. (See on Amazon)
Eyelash Extension Length
Generally speaking, shorter extensions of 5-9mm are used for inner corners or under eyelash extensions, and 9-13mm extensions are used for the majority of the set.
Some artists mix longer lengths from 14mm or longer lashes to create a Hybrid volume effect.
How to choose the right lash lengths
Naturally, many customers want the longest lashes, but it is essential to keep in mind that the individual client's lash condition should determine the length of the extension.
It is your responsibility to guide your client if the lashes are too long for their natural lash, as they may cause premature falling out of the extensions.
Choose slightly longer lashes for clients with hooded eyelids or droopy eyelids. Their lashes tend to 'hide' under the eyelids when the eyes are open.
When using the curlier curls like D and U curls, remember when the curl is strong, the length of the extension will appear shorter. So, choose the lash length according to the curl you are using.
