Long-lasting eyelash extensions - how?
Having issues with your client’s extensions not holding up? Retention is THE hottest and most sensitive topic in the lash industry. Often, the fault gets directed to the extension glues and many artists jump from one glue to the more expensive ones with a hope that a higher price tag must mean something. But before you press ‘order’ on a $75 glue bottle, please read this with attention.
As an extensive experience as a manufacturer, at BL, we know that most of the glues come from the same source. Yes, there are some differences in the ‘recipe’ of the glue but it’s fair to say often times retention issues are NOT caused by the glue.
Most of the time, retention issues are caused by the following three cases:
- Environmental factors such as humidity, and salon settings
- Improper application
- Clients not properly caring for their extensions
So what’s the key to the longevity of eyelash extensions? Here is the ultimate checklist that we have gathered to help you achieve the perfect long-lasting bond.
Start the lash application with a clean slate
After completing the standard consultation with your customer, proceed to remove the make-up and excess oils with an oil-free makeup remover and foam cleanser. Blot the lashes as well and rinse with water to remove the cleanser completely as it assists to remove any oils and proteins from the lashes.
Use lash primer
Once you have completed the foam cleansing process, it’s a time for the primer. BL Lashes have developed a Lash Primer that is effective and highly recommended.
Place eye pads over the eye area before applying the primer. The use of this product is to remove any oil residue. Once the lashes are primed, blow-dry them with a mini fan thoroughly, and now you have a clean slate for application!
Note: Try to avoid the primer touching the skin. Lash primers contain alcohol, so when it touches the client's sensitive skin area around the eyes it could result in a little stingy sensation or dryness of the skin.
Read more about the wonders of lash primer here: The Answer to Long-Lasting Lash Retention - Lash Primer
Place the eye pads correctly
Placement of eye pads can affect retention. Please pay attention to where the eye pads are placed.
This is to avoid touching the conjunctiva(anterior lid) or the sclera(the eyeball). Improper placement of the eye pads may cause discomfort and watery eyes, and even in some cases, a bruise on the client’s eyeballs which can lead to weakening the bonds due to shock polymerization.
Keep the lash glue fresh
To ensure the best quality of craftsmanship, your adhesive needs to be as fresh as possible.
A cloudy, white ring around your adhesive or a change in consistency will be noticeable if you are not using a fresh dot.
To ensure that your adhesive is always fresh and happy, dispense the first drop of your adhesive JUST BEFORE you start your work and drop a single dot of adhesive every 15 to 20 minutes during the process (the time period is only a guide; you understand your tools better and be able to gauge its performance).
Here is also a little something that we found in the market that will help you drastically maximize the duration in keeping your adhesive as fresh as possible – the BL Glue Tape. This tape is made specifically to help in maintaining the freshness of your adhesive. It does it by providing a smooth surface that helps prevent moisture from entering into the paper tape, and that helps to prolong the freshness of the adhesive. Studies confirm that the normal duration can be almost doubled!
Know how to dip for better retention
Do not drag, slide or tap your extensions on the surface the glue because it will cause the extensions to grab the ‘outer film’ accumulated over the glue – as the extension will not adhere to the natural lashes as the film is already curing. To obtain the best adhering results, dip the extension about 1 to 2 mm into the adhesive.
Use strong-hold lash extensions
To create a strong bond that results in a seamless result, try Laser Mink Lash extensions. These are BL exclusive, quick-set lash extensions with patent technology.
With BL Laser Lash, you do not have to worry about “smothering” lash extensions with glues or extensions sliding off from the natural lashes as the lasered indentation in the Laser Lashes absorb glue like a sponge and release the glue when the extensions “interlock” with the natural lash. The only thing you need to do is to place and hold the extensions on the natural lashes for a few seconds!
Be aware of the balance of humidity and adhesive
The humidity in the air of your workspace plays a huge role in your craftsmanship since the adhesive directly influences the adhesive’s ability to grab and bond. As we all know, adhesive cures with moisture.
Try investing in an affordable instrument that can help with reading the humidity in the room, like a hygrometer. If your workspace is dry or humid, try installing a humidifier or a dehumidifier to help regulate the humidity. Making sure you have the right products can help incrementally too!
Please read our ultimate guide for humidity and lash extension retention here.
Ventilate your lash studio well
Rare (yet crucial) environmental factor: Ammonia
There are other chemicals in the environment that can affect your retention –ammonia being one of them. If you are working near a hair color and/or bleach service station, this can make your glue crystalize in several minutes. This event will eventually make your lash extensions fall out much faster than it should be.
Do you know what else contains ammonia? Pee! Yes, you heard it right. We’ve seen some salons experiencing major retention issues and when we dug deeper what’s common in these places? They all had cats (and litter boxes) in their salons. If your salon has some rare conditions like the above cases, ventilate, ventilate and ventilate.
Create a proper aftercare guide
Prepare a list of Dos’ and Don'ts' aftercare instructions as well as a clear verbal explanation on it.
Some advice that should never be missed, such as - the lashes cannot get wet for the first 24 hours to allow the adhesive to cure fully. The surface of the adhesive is dry after a few seconds, which is why we can brush them after application, but as the adhesive will cure in layers, you need to remind your client to plan showering and workouts before each appointment.
Oil can compromise the bonds so make sure to remind your clients to clean their lashes daily. Dirty lashes will weaken the bond and cause the lashes to slip off prematurely.
Always print out the aftercare instruction cards and provide them to your clients.
So, there you have it! A few key guides to keep the lashes intact! Next time if you are having another major retention crisis (we hope not!), check the list above and see if you are missing any steps.
Are you still feeling unsure why your lashes don’t last? Contact us for a consultation, our product team is more than happy to help!
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Happy lashing everyone!